By Maryilyn Otterson
Staff Writer

As a restaurant reviewer, I’m often asked if I have a favorite eatery. It’s a difficult question because so much depends on my mood and cravings. Usually when I think of dining out, I choose to go somewhere casual where the food is great and the atmosphere is relaxed and fun. When I want Italian food, I go to Bermelli’s Trattoria.

About a year ago I wrote an article about a place called Nicky D’s that had been bought recently by Bernardo and Melanie DiFloures. They re-named the place using a combination of their own names, and began to upgrade and modernize the restaurant and the menu.

I’ve enjoyed re-visiting Bermelli’s all year, watching the changes, savoring Bernie’s new dishes. The Commodore, my frequent dining companion, is practically addicted to Bermelli’s chicken Parmigiana with its lightly breaded, gently fried, fresh chicken breast, tender pasta and wonderful, bright homemade marinara. 

I like to try some of the newer dishes on the menu such as the Tuscan chicken, so colorful and appetizing with fresh chicken breast wrapped around a filling of provolone and mozzarella cheese, prosciutto, spinach, roasted red pepper and spices. This is seared in olive oil and garlic and finished in the oven, then sliced to show its colorful interior, and served over pasta that has been tossed with oil and garlic.

Speaking of pasta, Bermelli’s is the only place in the city that I know of making fresh, homemade pasta. When I first tried it, shaped into tender ravioli, I was hooked. Bernie makes his own delicious marinara, meat and pizza sauces, and fresh pizza dough daily for thin crust Neapolitan or thick crust Sicilian pizza.  

One of my favorite dishes is Bermelli’s chicken and broccoli – or seafood – Alfredo. I know it’s sinful, but the sauce is so rich, creamy and cheesy that it’s addictive. The same is true of the wonderful, homemade dressing on the Caesar salad. Add some marinated grilled shrimp, steak tips or chicken to a salad and you have a great summer lunch or dinner. There’s also a large assortment of pizza, calzones and all kinds of sandwiches.

Over the year we’ve feasted on chicken pesto, sausage cacciatore and shrimp fra diavolo, all excellent. One of these evenings I’m going to work my way down the list to the linguine with clam sauce or the signature boscaiola, a pasta dish with ham, mushrooms, olive oil and garlic, flamed with white wine and lightly sauced with marinara and cream over pasta.

Bermelli’s is developing a list of reasonably priced specialty Italian wines to accompany entrees, and servers are happy to suggest a wine to complement a particular dish. They also have a full liquor license.

Bernardo DiFloures was recently chosen as one of three best-qualified American chefs by the Italian Trade Commission to travel to the Italian province of Puglia where he worked with notable local chefs, learning the cuisine of the province. Exploring wineries, he studied special wines and how they pair with local dishes. No doubt some of the unique dishes will find their way onto Bermelli’s specialty menu in the future.

When you go to Bermelli’s for dinner, call for a reservation because some evenings the place gets very busy and the 50 seats fill. Be sure to save room for homemade tiramisu or cannoli. These are luscious and light, and very moderately priced as are all of Bermelli’s menu choices.

Bermelli’s Trattoria is located at 100 Hanover St., next to the Palace Theatre, and is open Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Friday and Saturday until 10 p.m. It is closed Sunday. For take out or reservations, call 626-1754.